Important Disclaimer: This article references a model that is no longer in production. Please note that the availability of replacement parts or discussed accessories is not guaranteed.
- Can I cut metal or other non-wood materials with your jointers?
Although our jointers will physically cut many different types of materials, they are only designed to cut natural wood or wood-based materials (plywood, MDF, OSB, etc.). Cutting materials not intended to be cut on a woodworking jointer can result in serious injury to the operator or bystanders, and it could decrease the life of the saw and void the warranty. - Can I still use my jointer without connecting it to a dust collector?
Yes, but we don't recommend it. Without using a dust collector, the dust will quickly pile up inside and around your machine, resulting in additional cleaning time later. Besides making a mess, fine dust can be harmful to your respiratory system. A better choice is to connect your table saw to a properly-designed dust collection system that at least pulls the recommended minimum CFM for your machines dust port. - How do I know which size of motor I'll need for my jointer/planer?
The answer primarily depends on these three factors: (1) your average stock width, (2) your typical wood type or variety, and (3) your anticipated cutting frequency or overall demands placed on the jointer/planer. First, it is important to note that with a slow enough feed rate, any of our jointers/planers can cut a piece of hardwood up to that machine's maximum cutting width. Unfortunately, using too slow of a feed rate can result in ripples and chipping in your workpiece, and using a feed rate that is so aggressive that it causes a motor to bog down will quickly increase the motor's internal temperature to a state of thermal breakdown. Once a motor reaches this state, continued operation (without allowing sufficient cool-down time between cuts) will result in the motor becoming so hot that its winding insulation will completely fail and the motor will die. A larger motor, however, could easily perform the exact same type of work without ever reaching a state of thermal breakdown. With that in mind, your goal should be to select a motor size that will handle the majority of what you'll be cutting on a regular basis, without bogging the motor down. To translate this into a more practical perspective, generally speaking, a 1.5 HP motor used with an aggressive feed rate can repeatedly cut 6" wide hardwoods without bogging down. A 3 HP motor, on the other hand, can repeatedly cut the same type of stock with the same type of feed rate at approximately twice that size without bogging down. - I see some machines advertised for 220V, some for 230V, and some for 240V. Aren't these all the same? And if so, why don't you just pick one and use it consistently on all machines throughout your catalog and website?
The answer to the first part of your question is both Yes and No. Yes, because generally speaking, all machines advertised with any of these voltages will operate on the same nominal power supply, and as a consumer, you really don't need to worry about it. No, because the official nominal voltage recognized in different countries actually does vary slightly. For example, in the USA the nominal voltage is officially recognized as 240V; however, in Taiwan it might be 220V, and in China it might be 230V. These differences really only matter to the power companies in these countries, which typically are required to guarantee that the power supply service provided to consumers is plus or minus 5% of the nominal voltage. Similarly, motor manufacturers typically must guarantee that their motors will operate on plus or minus 10% of the voltage indicated on the nameplate. As such, it is our policy to show the actual voltage indicated on the nameplate of the motor. This gives our customers the most accurate information we have, so they don't see one number in our catalog and a completely different number once they get the machine home.