Important Disclaimer: This article references a model that is no longer in production. Please note that the availability of replacement parts or discussed accessories is not guaranteed.
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Can I cut metal or other non-wood materials with your jointers?
Although our jointers will physically cut many different types of materials, they are only designed to cut natural wood or wood-based materials (plywood, MDF, OSB, etc.). Cutting materials not intended to be cut on a woodworking jointer can result in serious injury to the operator or bystanders, and it could decrease the life of the saw and void the warranty. -
Can I still use my jointer without connecting it to a dust collector?
Yes, but we don't recommend it. Without using a dust collector, the dust will quickly pile up inside and around your machine, resulting in additional cleaning time later. Besides making a mess, fine dust can be harmful to your respiratory system. A better choice is to connect your table saw to a properly-designed dust collection system that at least pulls the recommended minimum CFM for your machines dust port. -
How do I know which size of motor I'll need for my jointer?
The answer primarily depends on these three factors: (1) your average stock width, (2) your typical wood type or variety, and (3) your anticipated cutting frequency or overall demands placed on the jointer. First, it is important to note that with a slow enough feed rate, any of our jointers can cut a piece of hardwood up to that jointer's maximum cutting width. Unfortunately, using too slow of a feed rate can result in ripples and chipping in your workpiece, and using a feed rate that is so aggressive that it causes a motor to bog down will quickly increase the motor's internal temperature to a state of thermal breakdown. Once a motor reaches this state, continued operation (without allowing sufficient cool-down time between cuts) will result in the motor becoming so hot that its winding insulation will completely fail and the motor will die. A larger motor, however, could easily perform the exact same type of work without ever reaching a state of thermal breakdown. With that in mind, your goal should be to select a motor size that will handle the majority of what you'll be cutting on a regular basis, without bogging the motor down. To translate this into a more practical perspective, generally speaking, a 1.5 HP motor used with an aggressive feed rate can repeatedly cut 6" wide hardwoods without bogging down. A 3 HP motor, on the other hand, can repeatedly cut the same type of stock with the same type of feed rate at approximately twice that size without bogging down. -
I see that this machine is rated for 110V or 220V. Does that mean that I can just connect it to one or the other and it will automatically work?
No. Although the machine is rated for both voltages, it is factory pre-wired for a 110V power supply. In order to operate on 220V, it must be rewired and some of the electrical components (such as the power cord plug) must be replaced (see Owner's Manual for complete details). Most local hardware stores sell clamp-on style 220V power cord plugs that can be attached to the machine's power cord in place of the 110V plug shipped with the machine. If any proprietary electrical parts are needed for the conversion, these will be indicated in the machine's Owner's Manual and can be purchased from Grizzly. IMPORTANT: To maintain the machine's warranty and reduce the risk of electrocution, severe burns, or death, only an electrician or other qualified service personnel should perform the 220V conversion procedure. -
What is needed for converting this machine to 220V?
First, review the circuit requirements in the Owner's Manual to make sure you have the appropriate 220V power supply circuit and wall receptacle installed in your shop. Converting the machine to 220V involves (1) disconnecting saw from power supply, (2) cutting off existing power cord plug, (3) reconfiguring wire connections inside the motor junction box, and (4) installing the appropriate 220V plug (see Owner's Manual for full details). CAUTION: To reduce the risk of electrocution or fire, only an electrician or qualified service personnel should perform this procedure. -
What is the difference between G0813 and G0814?
The G0813 comes with a knock-down stand for a base that requires assembly. The G0814 comes with a one-piece cabinet for a base that does not require assembly. Aside from these differences, the two models are identical. -
What are the benefits of a spiral cutterhead?
Spiral cutterheads have several advantages over straight-knife cutterheads including: edge longevity, easier cutter changes, superior finishing on workpieces and machine noise reduction. The biggest benefit of using a spiral cutterhead with carbide inserts is carbide steel holds an edge approximately ten times longer than the traditional HSS (high speed steel) found in most straight-knife cutterheads. Every spiral cutterhead has many individual carbide inserts, each with four separate cutting edges. The inserts are indexable, which means each insert can be rotated three times to reveal a new cutting edge. (A reference mark on the inserts indicates how many times the insert has been rotated.) Sharpening and setting knives in traditional cutterheads is a time-consuming and potentially expensive process. Cutter changes are quick and easy with spiral cutterheads. Another advantage with spiral cutterheads is that a cutting edge is always in contact with your workpiece. This significantly helps to reduce ripples and chipping on your workpieces, especially when you need to employ an aggressive feed rate. The finish of a spiral cutterhead is also superior to a straight-knife cutterhead, reducing the time needed to sand your workpiece. And lastly, spiral cutterheads are quieter than straight-knife cutterheads, which reduces machine noise in your shop. -
Is there a spiral cutterhead upgrade for this jointer?
We have a few different options for cutterheads. We also strongly recommend replacing the bearings when you replace the cutterhead, as the original bearings are often damaged if you attempt to reuse them. Please click the model number to view the cutterhead: H7653, H7764, and T27698.The H7653 Cutterhead does not require the bearings to be replaced because it includes replacement bearings, along with pulleys, bearing blocks, and mounting studs. This one is the easiest to install over the other two, but it is also the most expensive. Please find the links for the replacement bearings: P6202-2RS & P6203-2RS.
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How difficult is it to convert a jointer from an HSS blade cutterhead to a spiral cutterhead?
It takes about an hour to change-out cutterheads on a jointer. Grizzly now has a video that guides you through the process.